Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Week of insanity

On Monday we checked out of the hotel and headed back to the Stanford center just in time for afternoon classes. I couldn’t wait to see my host family again and tell them about the weekend. My littlest sister just had her fourth birthday this weekend and she was happy to tell me about her princess cake. I also got a package from home that included some goodies from the US—magazines and Kraft macaroni and cheese, plus more gifts for my sisters. Thanks, Mom!

On Tuesday I worked on some projects and fit in a mini-Lost marathon for all the episodes we missed in the past few weeks. This entire week is crazy because we’re all exhausted from the trip but most of us are leaving on Wednesday or Thursday for another trip this weekend (it’s a holiday weekend; next Tuesday is Labor Day here). I and several other students are going to Buenos Aires. I am so excited to be able to see this city again; I took a quick bus tour when I was passing through to Mendoza a few summers ago but it did not do the city justice. (Is it really nerdy that I already listened to the Evita soundtrack once this week? How I love Argentina.) We will all be staying in a hostel together which should be really fun. I really want to see the Plaza de Mayo, the Casa Rosada, the cemetery, and the giant bookstore made out of a theater that I have heard about from other students. I definitely want to get in some shopping and clubbing as well. My plane leaves early Thursday afternoon just after class (we’re taking a field trip to a church in Santiago, of all days) so I won’t be online or updating until Monday or Tuesday when I get back. Until then, ciao!

Bing Trip: Sunday

Sunday was our free day in the La Serena area, and most of us wanted to take advantage of the nearby coast so we signed up for a wildlife boat trip. About 25 of us took another 2-hour bus ride up the coast where the ocean and land are nearly untouched. On the way we passed through mostly empty desert and mountains, which were beautiful and populated with grazing goats and wild llamas. When we got to the shore, we loaded into two small wooden boats and headed towards the islands. On the way we saw several pairs of dolphins and seals swimming and leaping in the ocean. The first island we came to was very rocky, with only the occasional cactus growing on its cliffs. As we approached, we saw dozens of seals lounging on the rocks. Most of them were females or young seals, but the few males we saw were huge and ugly. They barked at us and bobbed their heads when we got close—at one point, I was nervous that the fat seals would jump onto our boat. We circled the island and saw Humboldt penguins and several species of birds, all of which survive on these rocky islands with fish and cacti to sustain them. At the second island, Isla Dama, we got off the boats for an hour of hiking and relaxing. A few of us climbed up a rocky hill to the lighthouse, from which we could see the entire island and the gorgeous ocean surrounding it. I had never seen such brilliant turquoise water before. After heading back to shore, we had lunch at a small local restaurant (cheese empanadas, fish, veggies and pineapple for dessert). Most of us slept on the drive home as sunburn crept over our faces and I woke up just in time to see a beautiful sunset over the shore at La Serena. We enjoyed a nice dinner at the hotel and spent the night playing games and goofing off in the hotel rooms.

I leave you with one of the cutest things I saw this weekend (other than the wild llama I saw from the bus): a little kid sleeping in the middle of a huge couch in our hotel lobby. He had this peaceful smile on his face and the he was so tiny that the cushions nearly enveloped him. All of us were waiting for the bus in the lobby and couldn’t help but fawn over this cute little kid.

Bing Trip: Saturday

Saturday was definitely the most packed day of the trip. We left the hotel at 8:30am for the Valle del Elqui, a few hours inland from La Serena. We first stopped at a nearby papaya and cherimoya farm. We got to see the rows of fruit trees and sampled some fresh fruit juice. We all slept on the drive into the Valle, but our tour guides woke us up to see the enormous dam that was recently built to provide water to the valley. The condensation from the reservoir that was formed is so intense that it affects the weather for the entire area, and we could hardly see the water because of all the low-lying clouds. We came to the small town of Montegrande, known for its vineyards producing Pisco (Chilean liquor) and as the birthplace of Chilean poet Gabriela Mistral. It was incredibly beautiful, hidden in the mountains and surrounded by vineyards and flowers.

We went to the tiny schoolhouse where Mistral once taught as a young woman and met an elderly woman who knew Gabriela Mistral as a child. She told us Mistral’s life story and it was really cool to meet someone with so much history. We also visited Mistral’s tomb and heard a little more about the inside story from Fabia, our activities coordinator. Mistral doesn’t receive very much attention in Chile compared to Pablo Neruda. She was the first Chilean to receive a Nobel Prize in literature, but got the national literature award several years later. This could be because she wasn’t as politically inclined as Neruda, or because she was a woman (and severe-looking, at that). When we got to her tomb Fabia told us that a new grave was recently added, that of her “half-nephew” (actually her illegitimate son). The whole story was quite interesting and made us realize how the conservative Chilean perspective can warp things quite a bit.

We walked from Mistral’s tomb to a Pisco vineyard in Montegrande, where we got to taste the grapes (very sweet and delicious) and the liquor made from it. We also got to meet Ruperto, a donkey who is featured in all the company’s ads and merchandise. I doubted his popularity until I got back and told my host family that I had met Ruperto, and apparently he is a household name in Chile. We had lunch in Pisco Elqui, another tiny village just minutes away. The town was very quiet but we had an excellent meal and some local musicians even played a couple of songs for us.

After lunch we traveled to Vicuña, a slightly larger town where we saw the Gabriela Mistral museum and a replica of her childhood home. We looked through manuscripts, personal effects and the rewards she received, including many honors from the foreign countries she worked in and a copy of her Nobel Prize check and medal. We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around the town, looking at artisan shops and enjoying a concert in the plaza de armas (main square). One thing I have noticed about Chile is that people enjoy passing time in local parks and town squares, listening to music, talking with family or letting their kids rent little bikes or electric cars to ride around on. I saw similar sights in Valparaíso and La Serena, and it makes me happy that people are outdoors socializing and enjoying public spaces. We ate dinner at a hotel in Vicuña and watched a short documentary about Gabriela Mistral afterwards.

Then on to the surprise event of the night: we were headed to an astronomical observatory in the nearby mountains to try and catch a glimpse of the southern constellations. Unfortunately it had been cloudy all day (in the valley famous for its clear skies 350 days per year) and we had to wait to see if conditions would improve. We drove up a long, one-way dirt road to the observatory and sat through a lecture on constellations, black holes, supernovas and telescopes of the world. I was too tired to get much out of it, except I learned that telescopes are named with very little creativity. The South African Large Telescope (SALT) and Overwhelmingly Large Telescope (OWL) were just two ridiculously obvious names that we learned. We got to climb up into the observatory itself and see the revolving dome ceiling, but at this point it was still cloudy and raining slightly. Still, the astronomers would not let us leave without a show. With all the long hours up in the observatory and nothing to do, these Chilean astronomers formed their own little band and gave us a short concert. I was expecting it to be pretty lame, especially because we were all exhausted at this point, but the band was good and they played a mix of rock and indigenous music. This one man had amazing skills on the pan pipes—I couldn’t believe how fast he could go through the notes while at the same time playing a drum with his other hand.

As we headed down the mountains toward the valley once more, the skies cleared up and I couldn’t help standing up and sticking my head out the bus window to see the hundreds of stars outside. We stopped the bus and got out for a while to admire the constellations we had just learned about. I was completely taken in by the vastness of the sky and the clarity of the stars in such an uninhabited area. With the help of one of the astronomers, we were able to point out the Southern Cross, Alpha and Beta Centauri, Saturn, Jupiter, Scorpio, and the points of absorption (black spots) that the indigenous people named after the animals they were shaped like—ostrich, frog, snake, llama. I could have stayed out there looking at the stars all night. It was even better than a night sleeping under the stars at camp, and I saw several shooting stars. Still, we were all beat and needed to get back to the hotel.

Bing Trip: Friday

A lot has happened since last week. The Bing Trip (thus named because it is sponsored by the wealthy Bing family) was incredible and we did so many activities every day. All the posts before this one are photos of the trip, so now to explain. I think this will take a couple of entries…

On Friday morning we met at the Stanford center and drove to the airport to fly to La Serena, a coastal town just north of Santiago. The plane ride was only about 45 minutes, and soon we were landing at a small airport that was painted bright yellow. La Serena is quite small, and our hotel was one of the tallest and most modern buildings even at five stories, but the town has a lot of history, including many old churches and colonial-style buildings. We had a delicious buffet lunch and got the rest of the afternoon to explore the city. First we went to the Museo Arquelógico, which was slightly disappointing after seeing the Precolumbian Art Museum in Santiago, but still very cool. It houses one of the only Moai statues removed from Easter Island. It was apparently a medium sized statue in relation to others on the island, about 10 feet tall. We also saw some ancient vases, mummies, and other artifacts.

After the museum we went to the Mercado La Recova, the local artisan market built around a two-story building with an open courtyard. I’m not the kind of person who gets excited about artisan shops, especially because we saw the same items sold over and over at every stall (little Moai statues, leather coin purses, mini bottles of Pisco). But one guy bought an “Andean saxophone” that looked like any other wooden flute, except it actually sounded like a saxophone, which was pretty cool. After the Mercado we were able to visit the Casa González Videla, house and now museum of the former Chilean president (during the 1950s). The museum was closing when we got there but luckily we were allowed in for a quick look. We saw furniture, letters from foreign leaders such as Harry Truman, and clothing belonging to the former president. I especially liked the giant snow suit on display, which the president wore when he visited Antarctica, part of which was acquired as a Chilean territory during his presidency.

On Friday night we had an excellent dinner at a restaurant on the beach called Tololo Beef. Afterwards a few of us headed to a bar called Brooklyn’s, which attempted to create a New York City theme. It was a little too expensive, but we got to see a live band and hear an interesting mix of dance music (a combination of cheesy 70s and 80s songs in English, plus some random REM and Gypsy Kings thrown in for good measure).

Monday, April 23, 2007

post-bing trip exhaustion

I don't have time right now to recap the weekend, because we were so busy and I am extremely tired right now, but it was an incredible weekend and we got to see everything from an elderly woman who knew the poet Gabriela Mistral to a famous spokes-donkey for a Chilean liquor company to penguins in the wild.

Also, there was a 6.2 earthquake in southern Chile this weekend that sent tremors up to Santiago. But since we were up north in La Serena, we were not affected at all. So just in case you were worried, everything is fine.

More later on the amazing weekend... time for class now!

Thursday, April 19, 2007

another wonderful weekend

this weekend we're going to La Serena, a coastal town a few hours north of Santiago. It's our Bing trip, so everything will be very classy and paid for by extraordinary philanthropists Helen and Peter Bing. We're having a number of different excursions throughout the city and a free day on Sunday. I'm feeling better every day so I can't wait for a fun, crazy weekend!

Last night we had a university colloquium at this cool half-underground bookstore in the middle of a park. We got to meet and talk to students from the Universidad de Chile which was a lot of fun. Hopefully we can meet up with some of them later on so that they can show us around the city.

Other than that, life is pretty normal... today I'm going to go shopping and try to find some healthier, more familiar foods. Eating at cheap fast food places around the center is not going to work out. I miss whole wheat bread and spinach!!

Wednesday, April 18, 2007

“You know who’s a real hero? Hiro. From Heroes. That’s a hero. Also Bono.”

This week hasn’t been too exciting but I’m trying to lay low because I’ll be traveling for the next three weekends and I don’t want to get too exhausted. I also have a weird cold so the only remedy is staying at home and sleeping and watching my newly downloaded television shows… and doing my homework of course. Yes, I know it’s pathetic to be watching The Office and America’s Next Top Model when I could be wandering around Santiago exploring the history and culture, but I do not want to be sick when we go to La Serena this weekend. And, okay, I miss Jim Halpert. And maybe Tyra too.

Everything is still going great with my family and I love spending time with them. Tonight at dinner my little sister was flipping channels (we always have the TV on during meals… actually, we almost always have the TV on even when my family leaves the house...) and when she got to the Disney channel the opening credits of the Lizzie McGuire Movie flashed across the screen. Now, only a 9-year-old or an incredible dork would know the Lizzie McGuire Movie from such a short clip… but that is exactly who my little sister and I are so we turned to each other and exclaimed, “The Lizzie McGuire Movie!!” except she said “Lizzie McGuire: Estrella Pop!!” because that’s what it’s called here. Unfortunately we could not watch this cinematic masterpiece in its entirety because we had to do our homework, but it was a great moment and I know that my little sister is awesome. Now I’m getting kind of sad because with all the trips I’m taking for the next three weekends I am going to miss my host family… especially because it’s my littlest sister’s fourth birthday this weekend. Hopefully I can find something cool for her even if I have to miss out on the celebration.

Also, shout out to Eve and Whitney for the mail! I love you both… it was such a lovely surprise to get two letters yesterday. If you are so inclined to write to me, please use the Stanford Center address:
Stanford University Centro de Estudios en America Latina
Hernando de Aguirre 162, Of. 202 Providencia
Santiago, Cod. Postal 751-0026
Chile
But seriously, I want to know what’s going on in your lives. I’m not expecting letters, but e-mails even if they’re short! It seems like a lot of crazy stuff has been happening at Stanford (and in the US), mostly depressing, but I want to hear everything!

Two amazing concerts in two days

I spent Sunday morning working on an essay and eating with my family. A lot. We had what I thought was lunch at 12:30, empanadas and bread with palta (avocado), a very typical Chilean meal. At 2:30, I was summoned out of my room for another meal, this time with lots of meat and of course, more avocado. But of course it was fun to have a big family meal with my host mother’s father and sister over and we had a great time.

On Sunday night I went to Vive Latino, a 12-hour concert at Santiago’s horse racing park, Club Hípico. I only went for the last six hours… but all the music I heard was amazing and it reminded me of Lollapalooza (so excited for this summer). I took the metro across the city to Parque O’Higgins, the biggest park in the city, and walked from there to the Club. Walking through Parque O’Higgins (named after the revolutionary leader) took a little longer than I thought, but I followed the gathering crowd of teenagers and found Hípico. I met up with a few other Stanford girls and we headed to one of three stages. We stayed at one stage all night, but the variety of bands was amazing. First was Chancho en Piedra, an energetic rock band with most of its members dressed up… the lead singer was some sort of insect superhero. Everyone was holding up plastic pigs to the stage (Chancho = pig). Next we saw Vincentio, which was much more chill and featured a great horn section. We walked around Club Hípico for a while, but there wasn’t too much to see… they had run out of food and there weren’t any extra activities like at Lolla. The coolest band I saw that I had never heard of was Los Jaivas, a mixture of older and younger musicians who played lots of indigenous instruments and long, mostly instrumental songs. Each member of Los Jaivas played at least three instruments, including didgeridoo-like horns, pan pipes, and different types of drums. It was really interesting to listen to and it seemed like the band had quite a following even after many years of being around. Next we saw Babasonicos, which had catchy music but I was too distracted by the lead singer’s outfit to pay attention. He was a vision of the seventies with long, shaggy hair, a long bright blue shirt with some type of sash at the waist, a glittery black vest, tight white pants, and blue patent leather knee-high boots. The look reminded me of ABBA but unfortunately no one else seemed to find this strange… Lastly we saw Keane, one of my favorite British bands and the headliner of the night. I was really excited to see such a big name live but they exceeded my expectations with their performance. The lead singer had so much energy and he encouraged everyone to sing along, a request which I happily complied. The pianist and the drummer were incredibly skilled and energetic as well. Their set incorporated their album art which I really enjoyed, as well as old movie clips and even a poem explaining the source of their song “Bad Dream.” I was amazed by every part of their performance and I am so happy that I got to see them, in Chile of all places.

The second concert I got to see was another Bing event at the Teatro Municipal Monday night. I missed a few pieces because the transit was horrible but it was fun to dress up and the theater was so beautiful. I’m so glad we had the opportunity to see a performance there… even though I wish I could have seen Swan Lake, which just left the theater last week. We did get to see an incredible performance of classical music, including Faure’s Requiem, a choral and orchestra piece that I sang and played viola for in high school. I was overwhelmed by the chance to see it performed live by such talented musicians (Santiago’s symphony orchestra and choir) and I remembered the parts so well even though it was sophomore year of high school when we performed it. The concert was over all too soon, but it was incredibly memorable for me and I realize I really need to get to more classical performances because I enjoy the music so much. Being in MYSO and high school orchestra was so much fun and even though I miss those days, I definitely relive them by listening to the music I once had the ability to play...

Monday, April 16, 2007

Saturday

I slept in late and went to an American coffee chain which shall not be named to get internet access in order to work on an essay. It was a little creepy to be someplace so familiar but with everything in Spanish… for some reason, it was weirder to me than any of the international McDonald’s or Pizza Huts I’ve seen. The internet access was spotty, but I got some research done and finally posted some photos! I realize it’s better just to use the internet at the center, especially when trying to download multiple TV shows from iTunes.

On Saturday afternoon I took the bus to the Alto Las Condes Mall. I realize that the bus system is really not that confusing even though I am secretly really proud of myself every time I figure out how to get from point A to point B by myself. Alto Las Condes was one of the biggest malls I’ve been in, with everything you could possibly need: department stores (Ripley, Paris and Falabella are the big three), Jumbo (the Wal-Mart of Chile), American and other foreign designer stores, fast food courts, sushi stands, and lots of gelato shops. I had to go to Falabella to buy a ticket for the concert on Sunday—all the Ticketmaster stands are located in Falabella stores. I tried on some clothes and figured out my size in the Chilean system… which makes no sense to me because it’s definitely not in centimeters. I didn’t end up buying anything because I can get cheaper clothing downtown, but it was good to check it out. On the bus ride back, I saw a jardin infantil (kindergarten—they’re everywhere, it seems) with a tunnel slide leading all the way from the second floor of the building to the ground outside. I imagine they just plop the kids down the chute every day when it’s time to go home while their parents wait on the sidewalk. Other than that, it was a pretty boring day and I spent most of my time either working on my essay or procrastinating for it.

Saturday, April 14, 2007

Neruda and I

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Neruda's view at Isla Negra

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At the beach in Vina

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Funny garbage cans in Vina del Mar

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View of the Andes from my apartment

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Cole Porter and Isla Negra

Thursday night we had a special event paid for by the Bings (major donors to Stanford Overseas Studies). We saw a performance of Cole Porter songs by a group of singers and musicians from New Zealand at the Ritz Carlton hotel. The event was very classy—we all felt a little out of place, but enjoyed the high quality food, wine, and entertainment. The performers were very talented and hilarious. They ranged in age from 50 to about 80 (the saxophone player was the oldest—he was the funniest of them all). They joked around and interacted with the audience throughout the entire show. I had heard a few of the songs from musicals and Frank Sinatra covers which made it fun when they asked us to join in (I Get a Kick out of You, Don’t Fence Me In, Anything Goes, etc). Being an old-timer at heart, I really enjoyed the show and the chance to do something different. After the show we headed out to the bars and clubs. We first enjoyed some drinks at a bar that had lots of art and large wooden tables. Later we went to El Tunel, a dance club. We enjoyed the (mostly 80s and early 90s rap) music and danced on the lit dance floor—just like Saturday Night Fever, ha!


On Friday we had a Bing-sponsored trip to Isla Negra, a small coastal town (two hours from Santiago) where Pablo Neruda built his biggest and most famous house in Chile. Isla Negra is a very calm, peaceful town and it was such a great opportunity to visit. The locals we met were selling art and trinkets; I bought a piece of homemade chocolate from an elderly lady for about 30 cents. I really enjoyed the tour of the house, although it was way too short—there were so many things to look at and I couldn’t take it all in! As I mentioned before, from when I visited his Valparaiso house, Neruda liked to collect maritime items, and this house was absolutely filled with his collections. He built his house like a ship as well, with narrow passageways and doorways. The living room had about a dozen different figures taken from the bows of ships. Apparently he named all of them. In the dining room, all the placemats had different ships on them and the places were set with colored glasses. I learned at la Sebastiana that Neruda always bought colored glasses because he believed they made the water taste better. I saw so many collections—to name just a few he collected ships in bottles, masks from all over the world, seashells, pipes, exotic insects, and old-fashioned stirrups. Every room was intricately decorated, including the bathrooms. Neruda’s bed directly faced the ocean via two large windows. He had such an incredible view every morning when he woke up. One of the last things I remember seeing was Neruda’s writing desk—he had it made out of a piece of driftwood he spotted floating in the ocean. As you can tell, I was incredibly enchanted with the house and did not want the tour to end. In the afternoon, we enjoyed a delicious, large lunch paid for by the Bings in a restaurant facing the ocean—part of the Neruda museum. After lunch, we listened to a recording of Neruda reading some of his most famous poems and then recited some poetry to each other. I have always enjoyed a good poem now and then, but listening to Neruda’s words while looking out at the very beachfront that inspired him was truly a magical moment. I passed the rest of the afternoon sitting on the rocks watching the waves and relaxing. I realized that this was a perfect day; one of the best I’d had in a long time.

Thursday, April 12, 2007

Museum-going, and swimming!

Not too much time to write today. I've been working on figuring out my schedule and writing e-mails before another weekend without internet, but I've been having lots of fun, too.

Yesterday I spent the morning studying and went to the Museum of Precolombian Art in the afternoon. It was my first visit to the heart of Santiago and there was so much to see! The very centermost streets are pedestrian-only, with lots of shops, restaurants and street performers. They even have muzak piped in on speakers lining the streets! It was fun to walk to the museum to the sound of the Love Unlimited Orchestra.

The museum itself was awesome. We saw lots of pottery, statues, and textiles from indigenous groups throughout Latin America. The quality and craftsmanship of the items was incredible. We also went to a special exhibit on hats made by indigenous people-- to indicate status, for war, or for everyday life. It was very interesting and we got to see intricate hats made out of animal skins, feathers, llama wool, and other materials. The museum was free so it was a great trip!

Last night I saw TranSantiago at its worst-- lines to get into the subway, buses that hardly moved in the traffic. At least no one threw any punches-- I did experience a fight on a crowded bus last week. I got home late and hung out with my mom and host sisters. They are hilarious and it was fun to help them with my sister's English homework.

Today I finally went to the gym to get a membership and got to go swimming. The Club Providencia is just a short walk away from the center, and has a great pool, cardio room, and even a whirlpool and saunas. It felt so good to be able to swim again even though the pool was filled with mostly old people.

Tonight we have a special Cole Porter concert at the Ritz Carlton. I can't wait for good music, good food and good drinks. Tomorrow we're taking a trip to Isla Negra to see another house of Pablo Neruda, and I think I'll spend the rest of the weekend in Santiago finally figuring out which classes I'm taking and planning out my trips. I just booked tickets to Buenos Aires today!

Wednesday, April 11, 2007

Easter, adventures in dining and shopping

My Chilean Easter was actually very similar to how I would have spent it in the US, besides the fact that I am now living in a Catholic country where Jesus and the Pope are everywhere, all the time. My host parents woke me up at 7:30 to take part in the chocolate egg hunt they had prepared for my host sisters in our apartment. It was fun to do that again... my family hasn't hid easter eggs for years.

Later that morning, I went to church with my host mom and older sister. The church was right across the street from our apartment complex, and my host parents were married there and my host sisters were baptized there. The only Catholic service I've ever attended was at Memorial Church, so I was expecting something long, formal and difficult to follow. This service was nothing like that and even though everything was in Spanish, I followed along easily. We even sang some of the same songs I learned as a kid, with Spanish words. The church was more simple than ornate and filled with modern stained-glass scenes of Jesus. Everyone was dressed very casually, and there were lots of families with kids who took part in the "children's message." I really enjoyed the service and it definitely reminded me of home.

After church we headed to Maipu to visit the grandparents again. We had a huge lunch: first, empanadas as a snack, then, several different types of fish and meat cooked on the grill (asado), with salad and vegetables, and finally some coffee ice cream cake for dessert. Both of my dad's parents, his sister and his nephew Francisco ("Pancho") ate with us. We ate and talked for several hours, while in the background the TV played investigations into Jesus' life and a news story about "The Burning of Judas" that I found particularly interesting. Apparently there is a small Chilean village that makes and publicly burns a giant paper-mache statue of Judas every year. I understand the significance, but the Judas statue looked kind of goofy, and it struck me as a strange form of symbolic revenge.

This week has been good so far. I still haven't made my final decision about which classes to take but gettting into a regular schedule has been great. Right now I'm taking Spanish Composition and Writing Workshop, Topics in Chilean History, Africans and Afro-Latinos in the Southern Andes, and Politics and Culture of Chile. Hopefully I'll drop one of these so my schedule doesn't become absolutely insane around midterms and finals. For now, I'm enjoying all of them and the workload isn't too intense. Yesterday I had two particularly Chilean experiences: eating a hot dog loaded with guacamole, mayonnaise and tomatoes and going to Jumbo, one of Chile's super-store chains. Jumbo was insane, and even bigger than a Super Wal-Mart or Target. The one near my house is also attached to a mall with even more giant stores. There are cashiers as far as the eye can see, and the ceiling is higher and the aisles are wider. I only spent a half hour there picking up notebooks and shampoo, but it was quite a sight.

Today I'm going to an art museum if I can finish my homework in time, and tomorrow we have a special Cole Porter concert for all the students.

Monday, April 9, 2007

Viña del Mar and Valparaiso

I can't get into as much detail about the weekend... because I saw and did so much. Also, I've been at the center for 2+ hours this morning and I have yet to do anything productive (other than a quick trip to the bookstore to order readers).

On Friday morning I took the bus to Viña del Mar, a coastal town about 2 hours from Santiago, with a few other Stanford students. We drove through the Cordilleras (smaller mountain range) to get there, which was lovely. Upon arriving in Viña, we found a nearby hostel, actually an old couple's house with rooms to rent. The rooms were very nice, with twin beds and TVs and closet space, and relatively cheap, too. We dropped off our stuff and walked around the city all morning. We saw the Palacio Vergara, an old estate and home to the art museum, which was unfortunately closed for Good Friday. But the surrounding gardens were really beautiful and had trees from around the world, including the traditional Chilean palm. We climbed up a dirt path and got a wonderful view of the entire city.

In the afternoon we headed to the beach, Playa Acapulco to be exact, and the weather and waves were absolutely perfect. At the beach, we ran into two other groups of Stanford students, as well as one Stanford girl and her family, and a girl from high school I haven't seen in years. It was great to relax on the beach when we knew the Stanford students back on campus were probably in class...

While wandering the streets looking for a restaurant for dinner, we saw an Easter processional with actors portraying Jesus carrying the cross and soldiers whipping him. Musicians, a priest and altar boys were also a part of the procession, and probably a hundred people followed them, singing and praying. Seeing this really affected me and reminded me how important Easter is to the Catholic world and the Christian religion in general.

We spent the rest of the night hanging around the hostel, watching movies and being lazy. I guess I should have gone out and enjoyed the fabulous Viña nightlife, but it was good to relax. I haven't been this well rested since winter break!

On Saturday we took the metro to Valparaiso, a port town just 15 minutes away from Viña, connected by a subway which runs along the beach. Valparaiso had a very different feel to it, less of a beautiful beachy resort town and more of an industrial town, with lots of history and little colorful houses built up into the hills. Valparaiso also has 14 working funiculares, little elevator cars that run up and down the hillside. We took one up and walked about 2 miles to La Sebastiana, one of the poet Pablo Neruda's three Chilean houses. The walk was long and hot but it was nice to get some exercise and to see beautiful views of the ocean. We took a tour of the house and got to see his collection of maritime items and other belongings... like a footstool that still had inkstains from the green pen he always used.

We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the city and checking out fountains, plazas, statues, old buildings and the like. We took a 5:00 bus back to Santiago and I spent the rest of the night with my family, watching Shrek 2. good times. Easter was another interesting day... but I will write about that later.

Thursday, April 5, 2007

ready for the weekend!

Last night we had our welcome dinner at a nice restaurant in Providencia. The food was incredible (I had the best risotto) and we all enjoyed some nice pisco sours and Chilean wine. Afterwards we all went to the Bellavista neighborhood, known for its bars and clubs. We hung out at a bar for a while and then went out to a dance club. It was a lot of fun to be out and about but this morning we were all zombies at the center this morning. People were napping on the couches and trying to relax before this afternoon's classes.

I finally set up some plans for the holiday weekend. A few of us are going to Viña del Mar, a beautiful city on the beach. I am hoping to be able to relax a lot and enjoy the beach vacation I never got over spring break. The bus ride is only a couple of hours so it should be a great 2-day trip. I'm coming back on Saturday night so that I can celebrate Easter with my family.

Today we discovered a really nice food court close to the center that has several delicious options-- from American and Chilean fast food to a restaurant that specializes in fruits, juices, and salads. I went crazy with the grapes and kiwi, of course.

This afternoon will be a struggle for all of us to stay awake through a couple of classes, but after a good night's sleep tonight I'll be ready for the beach! Yay!

Wednesday, April 4, 2007

adventures of daily chilean life

Even when I'm doing the most basic daily activities, I feel like I'm doing something really adventurous and exciting. I guess that's the point of going abroad. The past day has been boring on paper, but I've had fun just riding the subway, going to the department store, and trying to get my laundry picked up and done. I'm still trying to figure out which classes I'm taking, but I am getting some of the basics down and I'm going to join a gym soon... some students found a sweet one with a pool nearby.

Yesterday after classes we went to Falabella, the local department store (I remember it from Argentina also) and looked around a little bit. On the way home, I saw the Andes mountains for the first time. Usually it's too foggy or hazy to see them. I still get excited when I see the Stanford foothills in the distance, because I've always lived in The Land of No Topography... but this was a different story. The mountains are so close, and they are not as much on the horizon as towering above all the buildings in the city. One peak had snow on it, and there is one unique flat-top mountain (which we learned today is called Manquehue). I was pretty exhausted from the night before, so I went to bed pretty early.

This morning I did the transit to school all by myself... it really isn't as hard as I thought it was going to be, but my host mom still made me call her when I got to the center. Apparently the high school students of Santiago are demonstrating/rioting today in the city center (against Transantiago, the transportation organization) so we didn't get to take a walking tour. I understand that it could be crowded and dangerous, but it can't be any worse than Spain after the 3/11 attacks and London after the transportation attacks in July 2005. This afternoon, more orientation and class... but tonight is our welcome dinner and hopefully another fun night out.

Tuesday, April 3, 2007

Karaoke + more

The past day has been awesome! Yesterday afternoon after orientation I attempted my commute from the center to home for the first time. All was well, although it was really crowded, and luckily I caught my host dad on the bus ride back and he made sure we got off at the right stop. I spent the afternoon organizing my stuff and looking at transportation maps. We had an amazing pasta dinner with avocado (palta) and bread and cheese on the side... so far the food is great. My sisters watched Nickelodeon during dinner-- same shows like Blue's Clues and Zoey 101.

Last night we went to Isidora Goyenchea street, to the karaoke bar "Playback." This street was totally American/touristy-- it had a TGI Friday's, a Starbucks, and a Ruby Tuesdays, which we stopped by quickly to watch the championship game. Not too exciting, although I wished Bubs were there. When we arrived at Playback, we met up with 10 other Stanford students from this quarter and last. I ordered a traditional Chilean "Pisco Sour" (tastes almost exactly like a margarita) and the songs began with an old Chilean man who got up to sing "Your Song." The restaurant was occupied by our large table and one other table of local adults, and we kept sending up different members of our groups to sing. It was so much fun... karaoke is pretty much the best thing ever, especially here with a mix of Spanish and English songs and people often singing when they don't understand the words. The whole place cheered for everyone who went up, and soon we got really into it with clapping and arm-waving and the like. I sang "Son of a Preacher Man" and "Summer Nights." All in all, Stanford put up a good show and we represented with several hits of the 80s and 90s. The night ended with "Bohemian Rhapsody" and we all piled into taxis to head home.

It was a late night, so I got to the center around 10:30 this morning before 11:00 orientation. I managed the transit although even outside of peak hours it's pretty busy. For lunch we headed to Castano, a bakery and sandwich chain that is literally on every block and really cheap. I had a decent panini and then bought some international and local calling cards... so hopefully in the next few days I can set that up.

Basically, everything is going well. My family is really patient and attentive, and the Stanford center has so many useful resources. I am also really proud of myself for using resources carefully... I'm trading my 15-minute showers for "army showers" from now on! Someday I'll figure out the details of everyday life like internet, laundry and joining a gym, but for now just getting by and having fun is working well for me.

Monday, April 2, 2007

First Days in Santiago!

I got into Santiago at about 7:30 on Sunday morning. My flight from Atlanta had about 10 Stanford students on it and we had a fun time figuring out which lines to wait in for immigration... to pay the $100 "reciprocity" fee, to get our passports checked, to go through customs. Six of us piled into a "transfer" airport taxi and took off towards Las Condes, the neighborhood on the East side of Santiago that we all lived in.

When I got to my apartment, my host parents were asleep! Apparently they had a long night out with some of their young friends... but my host sister (Daniela, age 9) opened the door and let me in. I managed the awkward introductions and basic information about myself, and then Dawn, the Stanford student who was with my family last quarter, showed up for a visit. She's still in the area because she traveled to Bolivia and other places for a few days. She passed out pastries and things became a little less awkward... plus Dawn gave me tons of information on the new transit system, how to do laundry, and much more so it was very helpful. My littler sister (Fernanda "Fefi", age 3) finally emerged from her room, so I gave my family the mountain of presents my Mom and I bought. They liked the books and the t-shirts, and my little sister loved the High School Musical stuff I got her, even though she already owns so much paraphernalia already. They disregarded the peanut butter... but that means that I can eat some of it too! We had a nice breakfast of empanadas and grapes, and we all talked about the basics of living in Santiago.

Later that afternoon my family and I went to visit my father (Claudio)'s mother, who lives in the neighborhood of Maipu next to my father's brother and his kids. On the way my family drove me through the entire city, pointing out old churches, the library, the Moneda (government building), and other sites. It was really nice to have a real Chilean meal (we had chicken soup, tomatoes, onions, salad, french fries) and to meet the family. We also stopped by a huge, beautiful church in the area, Basilica Del Carmen Santuario Nacional, where hundreds of people were inside the cavernous sanctuary attending mass for Palm Sunday. Outside the church there was a huge plaza surrounded by columns where dozens more people were selling balloons, candy, and little palm decorations to honor the day. It was so cool! On the way back home, I was falling asleep on my sister's shoulder, seeing as I had wasted time watching Volver on the plane instead of sleeping, and I went to bed as soon as we got home, around 9:00.

This morning I got a ride to the Stanford center from my host mother's father, who is also hosting a student. We had several hours of orientation, which was boring but useful. For lunch a bunch of us walked around Providencia (nice neighborhood in Santiago) to check out the restaurants and shops. I didn't need to buy a cell phone, because Wendi left me one! I wouldn't recommend calling, and I have no idea how many minutes I have, but my number is 011 56 9 873 307 43 from the US.

Hope everyone's doing great. I am awkward and I miss the US, but I'm having fun. Tonight I'm going out to do karaoke... sweet!